Joseph Altuzarra Dares to Dream
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In a sea of American sportswear tropes, the designer gave us some imagination
It was a family affair inside Joseph Altuzarra’s office on the 14th floor of the Woolworth Building on Saturday morning. Two of the designer’s three children were there, one holding hands with Altuzarra’s husband and the other clinging sweetly to her grandmother’s side. “You look so beautiful,” I told his daughter in passing. The little girl smiled shyly and looked down at the floor. “I told her that already, but she doesn’t believe me,” her grandmother whispered with a laugh.
Other editors and stylists brought their kids too (and Jenna Lyons brought her fur baby, a small dog), which has become something of a custom for the last couple of seasons at Altuzarra. He began holding shows at his showroom this time last year in celebration of his label’s 15th anniversary. It’s rare these days for designers to display their collections in such an intimate way, but Altuzarra’s done well to create a non-pretentious, salon-style atmosphere that’s as much about the idea of gathering as it is about seeing new clothes.
Newness is something that’s frankly been lacking this week. Overall, designers seem a little dazed and confused. But who can blame them? The world is a pile of flaming garbage right now. Creativity can be a springboard to help us launch ourselves outside of collective dread, but sometimes, that dread is just so dreadful that it causes a temporary block. Though some may be feeling stuck in an expressive limbo right now, Altuzarra is on the opposite end of the spectrum.
The collection that came down Altuzarra’s runway for fall had imagination and ideas. There was texture, movement, and silhouettes that could fit an array of bodies and satisfy disparate tastes. It was about nuance, not a theme, and because of that, it was one of the more compelling propositions from an American designer this season. As Altuzarra explained over Zoom the day before, “It’s an evolution of last fall, when we started thinking about collections that feel less merchandised, collections that are about unique pieces that have a sense of emotion, sensuality, and strength.” He added, “It’s not about packing everything into one garment, but the whole of each look.”
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